Cook up 1 C rice & 1 C barley (or 2 C rice if you don't have barley or if your dog is allergic to barley like mine is)
Once the grain is cooked, mix together with:
1 (12-16 oz) can of salmon (water drained off)
3 carrots (grated finely)
1 apple (grated finely)
1-4 cloves raw garlic (pressed or grated)
2 pounds zucchini (grated finely)
1 pound pumpkin or yams (canned type or raw grated)
1/2 Cup raw fresh or frozen chopped spinach, kale, or swiss chard
2 eggs
1 tsp molasses (optional)
1 T. dried parsley (or a handful of chopped fresh)
1/4 tsp. celery seeds
1/2 tsp. dried oregano and/or basil
(Mixture will be sloppy at this point)
Blend in enough whole wheat flour (about 2 C) that dough is soft but not wet.
Spread dough about a quarter-inch thick on baking sheets, using your hands or the back of a large spoon. (Use non-stick pans or spray pans with non-stick cooking oil.)
Bake at 325 degrees for 25 minutes, then remove from oven and score into 2-inch squares with pizza cutter.
Return to oven and bake for 40 to 50 minutes more, or until edges and underside are light brown.)
Remove from oven, lift away from pans with spatula, then let cool to room temperature and separate the brownies. These treats will be moist and chewy.
(If you want crunchy treats, return brownies to oven at 200 degrees for about an hour after they've initially cooled. Check often to get desired texture.)
Once cooked, keep brownies refrigerated. They'll keep fresh about a week this way. Brownies also can be frozen for later use.
The raw dough freezes well too. Portion it into plastic zip bags in convenient amounts and freeze flat. Thaw overnite in fridge and bake as above.
Clicker dog training tips, articles, and information
Wednesday, December 23, 2009
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
Holiday Hazards for your dog!
CHRISTMAS
* Holiday plants – Christmas rose, Holly, Lilies, Mistletoe, and Poinsettias are all toxic to dogs and cats.
* Ribbons – It may look adorable, but placing a ribbon around your pet’s neck may cause them to choke.
* Bubbling lights – Older forms of this attractive decoration may contain methylene chloride, which is a highly toxic chemical.
* Fire salts – Contain chemical that could be harmful to pets.
* Angel hair (spun glass) – Can be irritating to eyes and skin, and could cause intestinal obstruction if eaten in large amounts.
* Christmas tree water – Stagnant tree water or water containing preservatives could result in stomach upset if ingested.
* Decoration hooks – Can cause blockage and/or trauma to gastrointestinal tract if swallowed.
* Styrofoam – Can cause your pets to choke if swallowed.
* Ornaments – These can look like toys to cats and dogs, but they can cause serious injury, especially if your pets break or swallow them.
* Tinsel – Can cause choking or internal trauma if swallowed.
NEW YEAR’S
* Balloons and Confetti – These fun New Year’s party decorations can cause your pets to choke or obstruct their intestines if ingested. Keep an eye on your pets when they’re around these items or move them to an area that is not decorated where they will be safe.
* Loud Noises – New Year’s is typically a noisy holiday. Unfortunately, loud noises frighten pets and can cause them to run off. Keep your pets in a separate room away from noisemakers, music, and other loud sounds that may startle them.
Keep your pet safe this holiday season!
Merry Christmas!
Happy New Year!
Pam, Isabelle, Bandit & Sabrina
* Holiday plants – Christmas rose, Holly, Lilies, Mistletoe, and Poinsettias are all toxic to dogs and cats.
* Ribbons – It may look adorable, but placing a ribbon around your pet’s neck may cause them to choke.
* Bubbling lights – Older forms of this attractive decoration may contain methylene chloride, which is a highly toxic chemical.
* Fire salts – Contain chemical that could be harmful to pets.
* Angel hair (spun glass) – Can be irritating to eyes and skin, and could cause intestinal obstruction if eaten in large amounts.
* Christmas tree water – Stagnant tree water or water containing preservatives could result in stomach upset if ingested.
* Decoration hooks – Can cause blockage and/or trauma to gastrointestinal tract if swallowed.
* Styrofoam – Can cause your pets to choke if swallowed.
* Ornaments – These can look like toys to cats and dogs, but they can cause serious injury, especially if your pets break or swallow them.
* Tinsel – Can cause choking or internal trauma if swallowed.
NEW YEAR’S
* Balloons and Confetti – These fun New Year’s party decorations can cause your pets to choke or obstruct their intestines if ingested. Keep an eye on your pets when they’re around these items or move them to an area that is not decorated where they will be safe.
* Loud Noises – New Year’s is typically a noisy holiday. Unfortunately, loud noises frighten pets and can cause them to run off. Keep your pets in a separate room away from noisemakers, music, and other loud sounds that may startle them.
Keep your pet safe this holiday season!
Merry Christmas!
Happy New Year!
Pam, Isabelle, Bandit & Sabrina
Sunday, December 20, 2009
What does being a good leader for my dogs mean to me?
One of my friends asked me how I would describe the type of leader I am when it comes to my dogs.
My answer:
I believe in being a good leader to my dogs. However, that does not mean using any form of intimidation or force. I think a good leader can set a good example by showing, explaining, and communicating what is expected of either a kid or a dog. I also think that one must trust a leader and know that no matter what that person will protect, take care of, and not put the dog or kid in harm’s way. I also think that to be a good leader one should be consistent and fair. I say kids/dogs a lot, because to me training/teaching a dog is not any different than teaching a kid (my full time job is teaching 6,7,8th grade physical education). If I would not mistreat, punish, yell at a kid, then I would not ever do it to a dog. I do think that good leaders provide good learning opportunities for the dog, sets the dog up for success and guides them in the right direction but still allowing them to figure it out and learn on their own as long as the environment is safe and will not cause the dog to regress in training, get injured, or have a bad experience. To me a good leader should also have good motivational skills, be able to set goals that are realistic and achievable (I would never expect Isabelle to do some of the tricks that Bandit can do, but I can modify and support her or pick different tricks for her that are more realistic and attainable). I also think that a good leader provides things the dog needs, but does not just give without the dog earning it. I do believe in the notion that nothing in life is free. We all have to work for what we get and therefore I make my dogs work for food, playtime, things in their environment and anything else they may want and they get rewarded heavily for a job well done.
I really hope that this helps some of you and makes you think about your relationship with your dog(s).
Sincerely,
Pamela Johnson
My answer:
I believe in being a good leader to my dogs. However, that does not mean using any form of intimidation or force. I think a good leader can set a good example by showing, explaining, and communicating what is expected of either a kid or a dog. I also think that one must trust a leader and know that no matter what that person will protect, take care of, and not put the dog or kid in harm’s way. I also think that to be a good leader one should be consistent and fair. I say kids/dogs a lot, because to me training/teaching a dog is not any different than teaching a kid (my full time job is teaching 6,7,8th grade physical education). If I would not mistreat, punish, yell at a kid, then I would not ever do it to a dog. I do think that good leaders provide good learning opportunities for the dog, sets the dog up for success and guides them in the right direction but still allowing them to figure it out and learn on their own as long as the environment is safe and will not cause the dog to regress in training, get injured, or have a bad experience. To me a good leader should also have good motivational skills, be able to set goals that are realistic and achievable (I would never expect Isabelle to do some of the tricks that Bandit can do, but I can modify and support her or pick different tricks for her that are more realistic and attainable). I also think that a good leader provides things the dog needs, but does not just give without the dog earning it. I do believe in the notion that nothing in life is free. We all have to work for what we get and therefore I make my dogs work for food, playtime, things in their environment and anything else they may want and they get rewarded heavily for a job well done.
I really hope that this helps some of you and makes you think about your relationship with your dog(s).
Sincerely,
Pamela Johnson
Friday, December 11, 2009
Dog Poem
If you can start the day without caffeine,
If you can get going without pep pills,
If you can always be cheerful, ignoring aches & pains,
If you can resist complaining & boring people with your troubles,
If you can eat the same food every day & be grateful for it,
If you can understand when your loved ones are too busy to give you any time,
If you can overlook it when those you love take it out on you when, through no fault of yours, something goes wrong,
If you can take criticism & blame without resentment,
If you can ignore a friend's limited education & never correct him,
If you can resist treating a rich friend better than a poor friend,
If you can face the world without lies & deceit,
If you can conquer tension without medical help,
If you can relax without liquor,
If you can sleep without the aid of drugs,
If you can say honestly that deep in your heart you have no prejudice against creed, color, religion or politics.....
Then, my friend, you are almost as good as your dog.
If you can get going without pep pills,
If you can always be cheerful, ignoring aches & pains,
If you can resist complaining & boring people with your troubles,
If you can eat the same food every day & be grateful for it,
If you can understand when your loved ones are too busy to give you any time,
If you can overlook it when those you love take it out on you when, through no fault of yours, something goes wrong,
If you can take criticism & blame without resentment,
If you can ignore a friend's limited education & never correct him,
If you can resist treating a rich friend better than a poor friend,
If you can face the world without lies & deceit,
If you can conquer tension without medical help,
If you can relax without liquor,
If you can sleep without the aid of drugs,
If you can say honestly that deep in your heart you have no prejudice against creed, color, religion or politics.....
Then, my friend, you are almost as good as your dog.
Sunday, December 6, 2009
Twas the night before Christmas (dog version)
Twas the night before Christmas,
When all through the house;
Not a creature was stirring,
Not even a mouse.
The stockings were hung by the chimney with care,
In hopes that St. Nicholas soon would be there;
The children were nestled all snug in their beds,
With no thought of the dog filling their head.
And mamma in her 'kerchief,
And I in my cap,
Knew he was cold,
But didn't care about that.
When out on the lawn there arose such a clatter,
I sprang from the bed to see what was the matter.
Away to the window I flew like a flash,
Figuring the dog was free of his chain and into the trash.
The moon on the breast of the new-fallen snow;
Gave the luster of mid-day to objects below.
When, what to my wondering eyes should appear,
But Santa Claus - with eyes full of tears.
He unchained the dog,
Once so lively and quick,
Last year's Christmas present,
Now painfully thin and sick.
More rapid than eagles,
He called the dog's name,
And the dog ran to him,
Despite all his pain.
"Now, DASHER! now, DANCER! now, PRANCER and VIXEN!
On, COMET! on CUPID! on, DONNER and BLITZEN!
To the top of the porch! To the top of the wall!
Let's find this dog a home where he'll be loved by all."
I knew in an instant there would be no gifts this year,
For Santa Claus had made one thing quite clear.
The gift of a dog is not just for the season,
We had gotten the pup for all the wrong reasons.
In our haste to think of a gift for the kids,
There was one important thing that we missed.
A dog should be family and cared for the same,
You don't give a gift - then put it on a chain.
And I heard him exclaim,
As he rode out of sight,
"You weren't giving a gift!
You were giving a life!"
- Author Unknown
When all through the house;
Not a creature was stirring,
Not even a mouse.
The stockings were hung by the chimney with care,
In hopes that St. Nicholas soon would be there;
The children were nestled all snug in their beds,
With no thought of the dog filling their head.
And mamma in her 'kerchief,
And I in my cap,
Knew he was cold,
But didn't care about that.
When out on the lawn there arose such a clatter,
I sprang from the bed to see what was the matter.
Away to the window I flew like a flash,
Figuring the dog was free of his chain and into the trash.
The moon on the breast of the new-fallen snow;
Gave the luster of mid-day to objects below.
When, what to my wondering eyes should appear,
But Santa Claus - with eyes full of tears.
He unchained the dog,
Once so lively and quick,
Last year's Christmas present,
Now painfully thin and sick.
More rapid than eagles,
He called the dog's name,
And the dog ran to him,
Despite all his pain.
"Now, DASHER! now, DANCER! now, PRANCER and VIXEN!
On, COMET! on CUPID! on, DONNER and BLITZEN!
To the top of the porch! To the top of the wall!
Let's find this dog a home where he'll be loved by all."
I knew in an instant there would be no gifts this year,
For Santa Claus had made one thing quite clear.
The gift of a dog is not just for the season,
We had gotten the pup for all the wrong reasons.
In our haste to think of a gift for the kids,
There was one important thing that we missed.
A dog should be family and cared for the same,
You don't give a gift - then put it on a chain.
And I heard him exclaim,
As he rode out of sight,
"You weren't giving a gift!
You were giving a life!"
- Author Unknown
Thursday, November 26, 2009
Electric shock training collars – illegal for humans but OK for dogs?
By Peter Wedderburn Last updated: May 8th, 2009
There’s a report today about a father in Oregon who used an electric shock collar on his four children, all less than ten years of age. He’s in custody, charged with “criminal mistreatment” of the children.
My question today is: if it’s not OK to use these in children, why should it be acceptable to use them to train dogs? The video report of the case states that some dog trainers justify their use by saying that “dogs have a higher pain threshold than humans”. This is news to me – how do you think they’ve worked that out? Give a dog an electric shock, then ask the dog “how much does that hurt?” Then compare the dog’s response with a human?
Electric shock collars are used on dogs by some to apply an electric shock to the dog’s neck when a dog behaves incorrectly. The shocks, understandably, cause pain and confusion for the dog, affecting it physically and mentally. There’s no doubt that electric shock collars have a powerful effect, but there’s also no doubt that they’re cruel.
New research published by the University of Pennsylvania has shown that aggressive pets which are trained using confrontational or aversive methods (such as electric shocks) by their owners will continue to be aggressive unless training techniques are modified. The year-long study, which has been published in the February 2009 issue of Applied Animal Behavior Science showed that using non-aversive or neutral training methods such as additional exercise or rewards elicited very few aggressive responses.
The Kennel Club has been campaigning for many years to have the sale and use of electric shock collars banned, and at last, some progress may be about to happen.
The Welsh Rural Affairs Minister, Elin Jones, announced in June 2008 that she intended to ban the use of electric shock training devices, including collars, mats and leads. Since then, the planned legislation has been gradually moving through the system, with an initial consultation period that is drawing to a close later this month. Anyone who wants to make a submission to this consultation needs to visit the Welsh government website before 27th May, where they can review the draft regulations. The Kennel Club is encouraging Welsh dog owners to respond, and to contact their local Assembly Member to ensure that effective legislation is drafted.
It’s well known that pain and fear are not humane methods to train dogs (or humans). Positive, reward-based training methods are both kinder and more effective. Trainers using these methods are able to teach dogs quickly, easily and reliably, with absolutely no fear, pain, or damage to the relationship between the human and the dog.
If you search YouTube, you’ll find plenty of videos featuring humans trying out electric shock collars on themselves. You’ll see they nearly always start off in jest, but end up being seriously upset by the electric shocks. The human response? They take the collar off, something which our unfortunate canine friends are unable to do.
How long until Scotland and England follow the lead of Wales on this? The sooner, the better.
There’s a report today about a father in Oregon who used an electric shock collar on his four children, all less than ten years of age. He’s in custody, charged with “criminal mistreatment” of the children.
My question today is: if it’s not OK to use these in children, why should it be acceptable to use them to train dogs? The video report of the case states that some dog trainers justify their use by saying that “dogs have a higher pain threshold than humans”. This is news to me – how do you think they’ve worked that out? Give a dog an electric shock, then ask the dog “how much does that hurt?” Then compare the dog’s response with a human?
Electric shock collars are used on dogs by some to apply an electric shock to the dog’s neck when a dog behaves incorrectly. The shocks, understandably, cause pain and confusion for the dog, affecting it physically and mentally. There’s no doubt that electric shock collars have a powerful effect, but there’s also no doubt that they’re cruel.
New research published by the University of Pennsylvania has shown that aggressive pets which are trained using confrontational or aversive methods (such as electric shocks) by their owners will continue to be aggressive unless training techniques are modified. The year-long study, which has been published in the February 2009 issue of Applied Animal Behavior Science showed that using non-aversive or neutral training methods such as additional exercise or rewards elicited very few aggressive responses.
The Kennel Club has been campaigning for many years to have the sale and use of electric shock collars banned, and at last, some progress may be about to happen.
The Welsh Rural Affairs Minister, Elin Jones, announced in June 2008 that she intended to ban the use of electric shock training devices, including collars, mats and leads. Since then, the planned legislation has been gradually moving through the system, with an initial consultation period that is drawing to a close later this month. Anyone who wants to make a submission to this consultation needs to visit the Welsh government website before 27th May, where they can review the draft regulations. The Kennel Club is encouraging Welsh dog owners to respond, and to contact their local Assembly Member to ensure that effective legislation is drafted.
It’s well known that pain and fear are not humane methods to train dogs (or humans). Positive, reward-based training methods are both kinder and more effective. Trainers using these methods are able to teach dogs quickly, easily and reliably, with absolutely no fear, pain, or damage to the relationship between the human and the dog.
If you search YouTube, you’ll find plenty of videos featuring humans trying out electric shock collars on themselves. You’ll see they nearly always start off in jest, but end up being seriously upset by the electric shocks. The human response? They take the collar off, something which our unfortunate canine friends are unable to do.
How long until Scotland and England follow the lead of Wales on this? The sooner, the better.
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
Incessantly Barking Dog
By KPCT on 12/31/2001
From Melanie Walton:
I have a male pointer mix dog that is about 2 years old. He likes to bark at everything! He has been through a basic obedience class and I do use the clicker when working on training skills with him. He loves working with the clicker and learns skills quickly. My problem is I don't know how to Discourage an undesired behavior. He barks a lot. There are two different situations in which he barks that I would like to stop. If he is sitting in the house next to me and hears a dog FAR off somewhere else in the neighborhood (he cannot see the other dog) he jumps up, runs around and frantically barks. Frequently he imitates the other dog's bark. If it's high pitched, my dog barks higher; if it's low pitch, my dog barks lower. He gets so worked up and then eventually stops barking, usually if the other dog stops (this also happens when he is outside the house).
The second situation is if he is in the yard and a person or especially a dog walks/rides/drives by anywhere in his line of sight (sometimes right by the fence and sometimes all the way at the other end of the block). He goes nuts, starts barking and runs back and forth in front of the fence. I can't seem to distract or get his attention at all. And if I am inside the house (and he's in the yard) I'm afraid if I walk outside to stop him it will reinforce the behavior.
The barking doesn't appear to be "mean." His hair is not standing up on the back of his neck and his tail usually up and wagging.
This is causing great problems with the neighbors and they are threatening to try to have my dog taken away. He is a great dog and learns quickly, I am just not sure how to use the clicker to show him the behavior I want...which is no barking.... or being quiet. Maybe he could be taught to bark just once or twice and then stop. I just don't know how to do that. If you could please give some suggestions on how to use the clicker to stop him from barking I would greatly appreciate it. I don't want my dog taken away and I do want to make my neighbors happy. I would love any help/advice you could give.
Dear Melanie,
When something happens that sets him off, In the house, get some super treats and the minute he barks click him and treat. Put him on a leash if you have to, so he doesn't run around. Stand on the leash. As he is eating the treat and can't bark, shove your hand in his face like a traffic cop giving a 'Stop' signal; this will suprise him a little. Click and treat. Then pause, don't move, let him start barking, click, treat, signal Stop, while he's still quiet, click and treat. Then say "Bark!" let him start barking, click and treat, signal stop, click and treat. Go back and forth at least twenty times, very fast, don't try to keep him silent, just Get silence and click it. He will catch on.
You will now have the beginnings of both a bark cue, to reward a single woof, and a Silence cue, to interrupt barking, indoors. Do this exercise every time he gets to barking in the house.
As for the fence running and barking outdoors, that is a different problem. Get it under control in the house first. My advice would be NOT to ever leave the dog in the yard alone, until you have control of the barking. Walk him on a leash, exercise him someplace away from the yard, and keep him indoors the rest of the time. Dogs don't really do well alone in the yard, they are better off being with you, and the neighbors can't complain that way. Crate him if need be.
When you have a perfect recall trained—so that he always comes the minute you call no matter where he is, you can perhaps let him in the yard again, but no more than ten minutes at a time, and a big reward for coming when called. The fence running is self-reinforcing especially in a bored dog, and prevention—by not turning him out on his own—is the first part of management.
Happy clicking,
Karen Pryor
From Melanie Walton:
I have a male pointer mix dog that is about 2 years old. He likes to bark at everything! He has been through a basic obedience class and I do use the clicker when working on training skills with him. He loves working with the clicker and learns skills quickly. My problem is I don't know how to Discourage an undesired behavior. He barks a lot. There are two different situations in which he barks that I would like to stop. If he is sitting in the house next to me and hears a dog FAR off somewhere else in the neighborhood (he cannot see the other dog) he jumps up, runs around and frantically barks. Frequently he imitates the other dog's bark. If it's high pitched, my dog barks higher; if it's low pitch, my dog barks lower. He gets so worked up and then eventually stops barking, usually if the other dog stops (this also happens when he is outside the house).
The second situation is if he is in the yard and a person or especially a dog walks/rides/drives by anywhere in his line of sight (sometimes right by the fence and sometimes all the way at the other end of the block). He goes nuts, starts barking and runs back and forth in front of the fence. I can't seem to distract or get his attention at all. And if I am inside the house (and he's in the yard) I'm afraid if I walk outside to stop him it will reinforce the behavior.
The barking doesn't appear to be "mean." His hair is not standing up on the back of his neck and his tail usually up and wagging.
This is causing great problems with the neighbors and they are threatening to try to have my dog taken away. He is a great dog and learns quickly, I am just not sure how to use the clicker to show him the behavior I want...which is no barking.... or being quiet. Maybe he could be taught to bark just once or twice and then stop. I just don't know how to do that. If you could please give some suggestions on how to use the clicker to stop him from barking I would greatly appreciate it. I don't want my dog taken away and I do want to make my neighbors happy. I would love any help/advice you could give.
Dear Melanie,
When something happens that sets him off, In the house, get some super treats and the minute he barks click him and treat. Put him on a leash if you have to, so he doesn't run around. Stand on the leash. As he is eating the treat and can't bark, shove your hand in his face like a traffic cop giving a 'Stop' signal; this will suprise him a little. Click and treat. Then pause, don't move, let him start barking, click, treat, signal Stop, while he's still quiet, click and treat. Then say "Bark!" let him start barking, click and treat, signal stop, click and treat. Go back and forth at least twenty times, very fast, don't try to keep him silent, just Get silence and click it. He will catch on.
You will now have the beginnings of both a bark cue, to reward a single woof, and a Silence cue, to interrupt barking, indoors. Do this exercise every time he gets to barking in the house.
As for the fence running and barking outdoors, that is a different problem. Get it under control in the house first. My advice would be NOT to ever leave the dog in the yard alone, until you have control of the barking. Walk him on a leash, exercise him someplace away from the yard, and keep him indoors the rest of the time. Dogs don't really do well alone in the yard, they are better off being with you, and the neighbors can't complain that way. Crate him if need be.
When you have a perfect recall trained—so that he always comes the minute you call no matter where he is, you can perhaps let him in the yard again, but no more than ten minutes at a time, and a big reward for coming when called. The fence running is self-reinforcing especially in a bored dog, and prevention—by not turning him out on his own—is the first part of management.
Happy clicking,
Karen Pryor
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