"What is a "clicker", and how do you use it to train?"
A clicker is a small, simple device that makes a click sound. Using this tool for training dogs is becoming very popular. It is used to tell the dog that a reward is coming very soon. When your dog does the right thing, such as open his mouth to drop your sneaker, you click and give him a small tasty treat. The clicker helps to speed up the learning process but is no longer used once the behavior is taught. I use them for most of my courses.
"If I use food to train my dog, won't that mean the dog will only obey if he's sees the treat?"
This is a common misconception about training with food. This is only true if the trainer makes a mistake. To use food correctly, the dog is rewarded after performing the behavior and quickly learns that even if he doesn't see the treat he should probably listen anyway because the treat is often hidden.
"People food is bad for dogs, right?"
Dog food is food and people food is food! The only difference is the quality. To really motivate your dog in distracting circumstances it is vital to use fresh high quality food such as meat or cheese. Treats should of course be used in moderation and deducted from the dogs daily ration.
"Shouldn't my dog listen to me because he loves me and not just for treats?"
Yes and no. You are often asking your dog to do things that he doesn't want to do and to do them no matter what else is going on. You are going to find you will often need something else besides a great relationship to motivate with and you have two choices, punishment or rewards. So, why not choose REWARDS!!
Clicker dog training tips, articles, and information
Tuesday, November 10, 2009
Friday, November 6, 2009
What does proofing behaviors mean, anyway?
If I had a nickle for every time I heard, "but my dog knows how to sit at home!" I might become the world's wealthiest dog trainer. My response is generally, "if your dog knows how to sit, why isn't he doing it?"
It's a rhetorical question. I know exactly why, and you need to also if you want reliable behavioral responses to cues. (Because I'm a nice dog trainer, I'll give you a hint...your dog is not trying to be dominant, assert his authority, he is not "spiteful" or out to embarrass you, and he certainly doesn't want to cause you frustration or grief of any sort.)
So what is the answer? It revolves around two key terms...generalizing and proofing.
If you frequent any dog training communities or clubs, you'll often hear the statement, "dogs don't generalize well." What does this mean?
It means that "sit" in your kitchen doesn't equate with sitting on the sidewalk, in class, when your kids are running around screaming, or your Aunt Ida unexpectedly drops by for a visit.
"Generalizing" in behaviorspeak/jargon means, "the ability to respond to a discriminative stimuli (cue) regardless of environmental influences." (I'm sure there are better or more technical definitions, but for our purposes, this should do just fine.)
When I first attended clicker classes with my chow mix Mokie, my instructor (and now business partner, Abbie Tamber) really brought home the concept of what generalizing means. I was the student who said, "but my dogs knows how to *insert behavior here*..." and she said, 'Has she done it 5,000 times?''
She hadn't, and I said so. 5,000 times?! This woman must be insane. Abbie told me, "then she doesn't 'know' it!" I must admit, I was a bit disgruntled.
5,000 times? Seriously?!
Seriously. Some service dog organizations will cue specific behavior thousands of times (as many as 8,000 times) before they consider a dog sufficiently "proofed," at which time they will have enough confidence to assert "this dog knows the behavior."
The number of repititions is not set in stone, and is in fact somewhat arbitrary. Once your dog is able to generalize a few behaviors through these proofing criteria, you'll find that all subsequently taught behaviors tend to generalize more rapidly. In essence, your dog is learning to learn!
What is not arbitrary is the fact that for a behavior to be learned, it has to meet a number of criteria.
What are these criteria?
In short, they are:
* Distance
* Distraction
* Duration
* Precision
* Latency
* Speed
and in my book, Stimulus Control rounds out the septet of critical factors which will influence your dog's ability to fluently respond to your cues in any environment.
In the series, you can expect a separate entry on each of the proofing criteria. For this introduction, I will provide a quick definition of each. In the later entries, expect more detailed information on how to proof for these aspects of fluency.
Distance: Just because your dog can respond to a cue directly in front of you does not mean he will "generalize" that the cue is still valid when he is ten, fifty, or two hundred yards away from you. If you want fluent responses at a distance, you must teach your dog to do so.
Distractions: While your dog may recall to you in your kitchen, she may not recall to you if she is off leash and spots a squirrel, deer, other dog, or even a leaf blowing in the wind. If you want your dog to respond to your cues in the middle of a construction zone, the dog park, or the pet store, you must proof for distractions!
Duration: Does your dog respond to a "down" cue and then pop right back up to a standing or sitting position? If you want your dog to offer an extended down until released, you must build duration for the behavior.
Precision: What is your vision of the ideal behavior? Proofing behaviors for precision is a fairly advanced process. Are you participating in competition obedience and getting crooked sits? To get that straight sit that you are seeking, you must concentrate on proofing for precision.
Latency: Have you ever cued a dog for a behavior and then waited....and waited...and waited for a behavioral response? You say "sit" and what seems like ages later, your dog's bum hits the floor? Latency is the time lag between the cue delivery and the offering/initiation of a behavioral response from the dog. If you want your dog to sit as soon as you give the cue, you need to proof for latency!
Speed: The criteria of speed in relation to behavior is signified by the time lapse between when the animal starts the behavior and when the animal completes the behavior. Sometimes a student recalls a dog, and you see a dog walking back to them. If we need to pick up that speed, we must proof for it!
Stimulus Control: according to Karen Pryor, there are four fundamental aspects of stimulus control. They are as follows:
1) the dog offers the behavior in response to the cue
2) the dog does not offer some other behavior in response to the cue
3) the dog does not offer the behavior in the absence of the cue
4) the dog does not offer the behavior in response to another cue
I am hoping that this series of entries will help you all through the critical stages of proofing so that you know how to train any behavior your dog is performing to reliability in the environments and situations you and your canine will encounter.
If it all sounds impossible, relax. Not only is it possible, it's probable and even better...it's fun! Until the next entry in the series, happy clicking to you and your canines!
Casey Lomonaco, KPA CTP
Rewarding Behaviors Dog Training
It's a rhetorical question. I know exactly why, and you need to also if you want reliable behavioral responses to cues. (Because I'm a nice dog trainer, I'll give you a hint...your dog is not trying to be dominant, assert his authority, he is not "spiteful" or out to embarrass you, and he certainly doesn't want to cause you frustration or grief of any sort.)
So what is the answer? It revolves around two key terms...generalizing and proofing.
If you frequent any dog training communities or clubs, you'll often hear the statement, "dogs don't generalize well." What does this mean?
It means that "sit" in your kitchen doesn't equate with sitting on the sidewalk, in class, when your kids are running around screaming, or your Aunt Ida unexpectedly drops by for a visit.
"Generalizing" in behaviorspeak/jargon means, "the ability to respond to a discriminative stimuli (cue) regardless of environmental influences." (I'm sure there are better or more technical definitions, but for our purposes, this should do just fine.)
When I first attended clicker classes with my chow mix Mokie, my instructor (and now business partner, Abbie Tamber) really brought home the concept of what generalizing means. I was the student who said, "but my dogs knows how to *insert behavior here*..." and she said, 'Has she done it 5,000 times?''
She hadn't, and I said so. 5,000 times?! This woman must be insane. Abbie told me, "then she doesn't 'know' it!" I must admit, I was a bit disgruntled.
5,000 times? Seriously?!
Seriously. Some service dog organizations will cue specific behavior thousands of times (as many as 8,000 times) before they consider a dog sufficiently "proofed," at which time they will have enough confidence to assert "this dog knows the behavior."
The number of repititions is not set in stone, and is in fact somewhat arbitrary. Once your dog is able to generalize a few behaviors through these proofing criteria, you'll find that all subsequently taught behaviors tend to generalize more rapidly. In essence, your dog is learning to learn!
What is not arbitrary is the fact that for a behavior to be learned, it has to meet a number of criteria.
What are these criteria?
In short, they are:
* Distance
* Distraction
* Duration
* Precision
* Latency
* Speed
and in my book, Stimulus Control rounds out the septet of critical factors which will influence your dog's ability to fluently respond to your cues in any environment.
In the series, you can expect a separate entry on each of the proofing criteria. For this introduction, I will provide a quick definition of each. In the later entries, expect more detailed information on how to proof for these aspects of fluency.
Distance: Just because your dog can respond to a cue directly in front of you does not mean he will "generalize" that the cue is still valid when he is ten, fifty, or two hundred yards away from you. If you want fluent responses at a distance, you must teach your dog to do so.
Distractions: While your dog may recall to you in your kitchen, she may not recall to you if she is off leash and spots a squirrel, deer, other dog, or even a leaf blowing in the wind. If you want your dog to respond to your cues in the middle of a construction zone, the dog park, or the pet store, you must proof for distractions!
Duration: Does your dog respond to a "down" cue and then pop right back up to a standing or sitting position? If you want your dog to offer an extended down until released, you must build duration for the behavior.
Precision: What is your vision of the ideal behavior? Proofing behaviors for precision is a fairly advanced process. Are you participating in competition obedience and getting crooked sits? To get that straight sit that you are seeking, you must concentrate on proofing for precision.
Latency: Have you ever cued a dog for a behavior and then waited....and waited...and waited for a behavioral response? You say "sit" and what seems like ages later, your dog's bum hits the floor? Latency is the time lag between the cue delivery and the offering/initiation of a behavioral response from the dog. If you want your dog to sit as soon as you give the cue, you need to proof for latency!
Speed: The criteria of speed in relation to behavior is signified by the time lapse between when the animal starts the behavior and when the animal completes the behavior. Sometimes a student recalls a dog, and you see a dog walking back to them. If we need to pick up that speed, we must proof for it!
Stimulus Control: according to Karen Pryor, there are four fundamental aspects of stimulus control. They are as follows:
1) the dog offers the behavior in response to the cue
2) the dog does not offer some other behavior in response to the cue
3) the dog does not offer the behavior in the absence of the cue
4) the dog does not offer the behavior in response to another cue
I am hoping that this series of entries will help you all through the critical stages of proofing so that you know how to train any behavior your dog is performing to reliability in the environments and situations you and your canine will encounter.
If it all sounds impossible, relax. Not only is it possible, it's probable and even better...it's fun! Until the next entry in the series, happy clicking to you and your canines!
Casey Lomonaco, KPA CTP
Rewarding Behaviors Dog Training
How to Help Your Fearful Dog: Become the Crazy Dog Lady
By Casey Lomonaco on 10/01/2009
I'm not crazy—I'm just training my dog
My two dogs and I were out for a walk one morning, enjoying the fresh air and the exercise. Mokie and Monte walked next to me with their tails wagging happily. They were probably laughing at me as I hummed along with my iPod.
About three blocks away, a dog rounded the corner and began walking toward us. Despite Monte's full-body hackling, despite his rigid and tense body posture, and a deep, low, rumbling growl, I quietly told him what a good boy he was. I began shoving meatballs, liverwurst, and smoked Gouda into his large jaws at a rapid pace, creating as much distance as possible between the approaching dog and the three of us. I continued to feed Monte until the dog was out of sight, at which time the tasty treats disappeared back into the abyss of my faithful treat bag.
St. bernard
I've often thought about having shirts printed with our company logo on the front and the phrase "I'm not crazy—I'm just training my dog" on the back.
I bet that many of my neighbors think I'm quite insane. Frequently, I can be seen chasing squirrels with my dogs, yelling "Let's get ‘em!" or walking around the neighborhood putting hot dogs in my footprints to set up scent games for the dogs. I pick up every pile of dog poop I see along the way, and practice heeling while skipping, jogging, running, and spinning in circles. Balls and tug toys drip from every pocket, and I can pull a mashed-potatoes-and-gravy-filled food tube, or can of EZCheese, out of thin air!
To any observer, it appears as though most of the things I do are strange, and the rest of the things I do are totally wrong. For example, the instant Monte noticed that other dog on our walk, he began growling. At the very same instant, he had liverwurst shoved into his face.
Positive trainers often say "you get the behaviors you reinforce." So wasn't I reinforcing growling by providing "reinforcers" as that behavior occurred? Really, why does that crazy woman shove treats into the mouth of, or encourage a tug game with, that "aggressive" Saint Bernard of hers?
There are good answers to these questions!
What scares you the most?
What are you afraid of? Snakes? Spiders? Being approached from behind in a dark alley? Let's assume you're afraid of snakes.
You're reading in the backyard, soaking up some sun. Over the top of your favorite book, you notice a snake slithering through the grass, approaching you. You're terrified. Your heart races, you scream (something that can be perceived as an act of aggression in humans), you grab the nearest weapon, and you frantically attempt to ward off the harmless garter snake (also an action that could be perceived as aggressive).
I approach you, pat your back and say "Hey, let's get out of here," and lead you inside, away from the snake. Inside I give you a hug and some iced tea. Did I make your fear of snakes worse? Better? Chances are, no. You're probably just as afraid of snakes as you were. The only change may be how you feel about me. The next time you see a snake, your heart may still race, you may still break out into a cold sweat and grab for the nearest shovel—and you may also wish for a friend to help you cope with the stressful situation.
Now, let's say you saw a snake, and, as soon as you grabbed a shovel as a weapon, I smacked you. Would you feel less afraid of the snake? Can you have the fear of snakes "slapped out of you?" If I slapped you when you reacted to a snake, how would you feel about me being near you next time you ran into one—more or less anxious? Your fear of snakes would likely be as intense as it ever was. The only difference would be how you felt about me when a snake was around—and at any other time!
Deep breathing versus snake
Deep breathing helps people relax. But when the snake approaches you in the backyard, do you think about your reaction to the snake, the dilation of your pupils? Is screaming a conscious decision? Is grabbing the shovel a reflex or a conscious thought? Do you consider the calming effect of deep breathing and how it might help you relax?
I'd guess that you don't think of deep breathing (an alternative, incompatible behavior to screaming, and also an operant response) when you see that snake. You're in survival mode; you are reacting rather than acting in an operant manner.
Similarly for dogs, growling, hackling, lunging, and snapping may be symptoms of an innate desire for self-preservation when they are confronted with stimuli that make them fearful.
For dogs, growling, hackling, lunging, and snapping may be symptoms of an innate desire for self- preservation when they are confronted with stimuli that make them fearful.
Symptoms of fear are not conscious reactions. Just as you don't choose to make the hairs on the back of your neck stand up when you see a snake or spider, your dog doesn't decide, "That dog makes me nervous. I should raise my hackles and growl!"
Even if you know deep breathing may help alleviate your fear, chances are that the thought doesn't pop into your mind when you most need it—in the face of extreme anxiety or fear. Likewise, your lunging dog's mind may be more focused on surviving than on performing even well-proofed cues for behaviors that are incompatible with the aggressive display.
Giving treats to a growling dog
Operant conditioning is a way all animals learn; it's based on the theory that the relative frequency or infrequency of a behavior is controlled by the behavior's consequences. In operant conditioning, the dog learns that his behavior can result in one of four possible consequences: positive reinforcement (good stuff happens), negative reinforcement (bad stuff stops happening), positive punishment (bad stuff starts happening), or negative punishment (good stuff stops happening). If behaviors are reinforced, they are more likely to occur in the future. If behaviors are punished, they are less likely to be offered in the future.
Remember Pavlov's dogs? Dogs salivate when presented with food. This is not an operant behavior, but a physiological response. Pavlov learned that after repeated pairings (lab coat or bell reliably predicts the arrival of food) previously neutral stimuli were able to elicit the same salivary response that the presentation of food would elicit.
Think of Pavlov's dogs when using classical conditioning to modify aggressive or reactive behavior. The stimulus (trigger) should predict the arrival of food—just as a bell or lab coat would for Pavlov's dogs. The reinforcement is contingent not upon the dog's behavior, but upon the presentation of the stimulus. The dogs got fed no matter what they were doing.
Just as in Pavlov's experiment where the lab coat, rather than the dogs' behavior, predicted the delivery of the primary reinforcer, the appearance of the other dog on our walk predicted the delivery of my treats.
Desensitization and counter conditioning
When you are working with aggression and reactivity, the trigger (generally other dogs and/or people) is no longer a neutral stimulus to the dog. Using desensitization, it's possible to "neutralize" or "shrink" the stimulus by manipulating distance. Counter conditioning uses a primary reinforcer to classically condition a positive emotional response.
To begin desensitizing the dog, accurately identify the triggers—what is the dog reacting to? Once triggers are identified, decide what the dog's threshold is for each trigger—how far away does the dog need to be from another dog without reacting? In other words, to desensitize, manage the environment to avoid provoking a full-blown reaction; remove the opportunity for the dog to exhibit reactive behavior.
To desensitize, manage the environment to avoid provoking a full-blown reaction.
The dog should notice, and even feel mildly anxious about, the stimulus at the threshold distance. To determine the threshold distance, watch the dog's body language—what are the first steps of the reaction? If your dog is happily taking treats at a distance, but gets mouthy and starts chomping on your fingers to get the treats as you move closer, you are nearing his threshold. Dogs cannot eat when they are extremely stressed, so if your hungry dog will not eat even the best of treats, he is over his threshold. The best thing to do at that point is to create distance using a previously taught "Let's go!" cue.
When the dog's triggers and the threshold distances are known, it's time to begin counter conditioning. Counter conditioning conditions an emotional response that is incompatible with the aggressive behavior; the goal is called a positive conditioned emotional response (CER). For counter conditioning, you will need some great treats, and could also benefit from the help of one or more stimulus dog/handler teams. This training works best if your dog is somewhat hungry (has not just finished a meal).
The CER is achieved using what Jean Donaldson has called the "open bar, closed bar" technique. When your dog sees another dog, the bar opens immediately. When the dog is no longer in sight, the bar closes. These are the rules—regardless of how your dog is behaving. The appearance of the other dog, not your dog's behavior, predicts the delivery of the reinforcer, a reinforcer that is only provided in this context. What should you serve at "the bar?" Really good stuff! Find out what your dog loves best, and only give it to him when the counter conditioning bar is open.
Over time a dog's threshold will decrease. Only move closer when your dog is able to see another dog and look back at you happily, tail wagging, expecting delivery of the ultimate treat—that is the CER you seek. End each session on a success, and always leave your dog wanting more.
Remember to reflect the behavior you want your dog to display, also. If you tense up when you see another dog, that tension will travel down the leash to your dog. Go for practice walks without your dog and rehearse deep breathing when you see another dog, so that you can display the same relaxed confidence you'd like to see in your dog.
Being the crazy dog lady is a good thing
Be prepared for the likelihood that your neighbors will not understand the training you are doing. Remember that it's your job to be your dog's guardian—gaining his trust by not allowing bad things to happen to him.
If your dog is aggressive toward other dogs and a neighbor walking her dog says, "My dog is friendly!" as she approaches, be prepared to intervene on behalf of your dog. Create distance, move in another direction. If your dog is afraid of children, use your body to block a child from running up to your dog. You may need to be the "crazy dog lady" in the neighborhood to rehabilitate your dog successfully.
Sometimes doing what is right for a dog is not easy. There is a stigma associated with owning an "aggressive" dog. There is also great responsibility, and great liability.
A supportive network can boost your morale and commitment if you get frustrated. It's important to establish a support network that includes, at minimum, a behavior-savvy veterinarian and a behaviorist with experience using desensitization and counter conditioning (D/CC) techniques to modify aggression and reactive behavior in dogs.
Ideally, your network should also include some supportive family and friends, and, whenever possible, other pet owners who have been through similar experiences with their own dogs.
Other considerations for aggressive and reactive dogs
Working closely with your veterinarian and behaviorist, you may find that additional tools beyond D/CC are required. More elaborate management techniques may be necessary. You may also need to desensitize your dog to wearing a muzzle if he has a well-established biting history, or if you are doubtful of your ability to manipulate the environment so that your dog can remain below his threshold consistently.
Some fearful and aggressive dogs benefit greatly from medication. These medications are not tranquilizers, but are medications given to correct chemical imbalances in the brain. Providing a fluoxetine prescription for a dog or human is just like providing insulin to a diabetic patient—both are medications intended to correct hormonal and chemical imbalances within the body. Unfortunately, I've seen a cultural bias against pharmaceutical treatment of mental illness extend to four-legged creatures, too.
All the training in the world cannot correct a behavior problem that is caused by pain or faulty brain functioning. But, medications are not a cure-all either. Just as humans taking anti-depressants see the most rehabilitative results when they attend therapy sessions, medication for reactivity must be accompanied by appropriate and thorough dog training. A full medical evaluation is required for all dogs displaying aggression problems, and a complete thyroid panel is strongly advised.
A number of holistic treatments may also be helpful in managing reactivity and aggression. It never hurts to bring a holistic veterinarian to the consultation team. A good holistic vet should be able to talk to you about how diet and dietary changes can contribute to or improve your dog's behavior. He or she may be able to suggest herbs, supplements, flower essences, homeopathic treatments, or massage techniques to set your dog up for rehabilitative success.
For a dog owner there is no reinforcement greater than seeing a rehabilitated dog greet life without fear.
Rehabilitating an aggressive dog is not easy. It can be a frustrating process, and can seem as if you are taking one step forward and two steps back. However, for a dog owner there is no reinforcement greater than seeing a rehabilitated dog greet life without fear. So, be crazy if necessary—the results are well worth it!
About the author Casey Lomonaco, KPA CTP, APDT, is the owner of Rewarding Behaviors Dog Training in Binghamton, NY. Casey offers private and group instruction in collaboration with Steve Benjamin, KPA faculty, CPDT, of Clicking with Canines, and Abbie Tamber, KPA CTP.
I'm not crazy—I'm just training my dog
My two dogs and I were out for a walk one morning, enjoying the fresh air and the exercise. Mokie and Monte walked next to me with their tails wagging happily. They were probably laughing at me as I hummed along with my iPod.
About three blocks away, a dog rounded the corner and began walking toward us. Despite Monte's full-body hackling, despite his rigid and tense body posture, and a deep, low, rumbling growl, I quietly told him what a good boy he was. I began shoving meatballs, liverwurst, and smoked Gouda into his large jaws at a rapid pace, creating as much distance as possible between the approaching dog and the three of us. I continued to feed Monte until the dog was out of sight, at which time the tasty treats disappeared back into the abyss of my faithful treat bag.
St. bernard
I've often thought about having shirts printed with our company logo on the front and the phrase "I'm not crazy—I'm just training my dog" on the back.
I bet that many of my neighbors think I'm quite insane. Frequently, I can be seen chasing squirrels with my dogs, yelling "Let's get ‘em!" or walking around the neighborhood putting hot dogs in my footprints to set up scent games for the dogs. I pick up every pile of dog poop I see along the way, and practice heeling while skipping, jogging, running, and spinning in circles. Balls and tug toys drip from every pocket, and I can pull a mashed-potatoes-and-gravy-filled food tube, or can of EZCheese, out of thin air!
To any observer, it appears as though most of the things I do are strange, and the rest of the things I do are totally wrong. For example, the instant Monte noticed that other dog on our walk, he began growling. At the very same instant, he had liverwurst shoved into his face.
Positive trainers often say "you get the behaviors you reinforce." So wasn't I reinforcing growling by providing "reinforcers" as that behavior occurred? Really, why does that crazy woman shove treats into the mouth of, or encourage a tug game with, that "aggressive" Saint Bernard of hers?
There are good answers to these questions!
What scares you the most?
What are you afraid of? Snakes? Spiders? Being approached from behind in a dark alley? Let's assume you're afraid of snakes.
You're reading in the backyard, soaking up some sun. Over the top of your favorite book, you notice a snake slithering through the grass, approaching you. You're terrified. Your heart races, you scream (something that can be perceived as an act of aggression in humans), you grab the nearest weapon, and you frantically attempt to ward off the harmless garter snake (also an action that could be perceived as aggressive).
I approach you, pat your back and say "Hey, let's get out of here," and lead you inside, away from the snake. Inside I give you a hug and some iced tea. Did I make your fear of snakes worse? Better? Chances are, no. You're probably just as afraid of snakes as you were. The only change may be how you feel about me. The next time you see a snake, your heart may still race, you may still break out into a cold sweat and grab for the nearest shovel—and you may also wish for a friend to help you cope with the stressful situation.
Now, let's say you saw a snake, and, as soon as you grabbed a shovel as a weapon, I smacked you. Would you feel less afraid of the snake? Can you have the fear of snakes "slapped out of you?" If I slapped you when you reacted to a snake, how would you feel about me being near you next time you ran into one—more or less anxious? Your fear of snakes would likely be as intense as it ever was. The only difference would be how you felt about me when a snake was around—and at any other time!
Deep breathing versus snake
Deep breathing helps people relax. But when the snake approaches you in the backyard, do you think about your reaction to the snake, the dilation of your pupils? Is screaming a conscious decision? Is grabbing the shovel a reflex or a conscious thought? Do you consider the calming effect of deep breathing and how it might help you relax?
I'd guess that you don't think of deep breathing (an alternative, incompatible behavior to screaming, and also an operant response) when you see that snake. You're in survival mode; you are reacting rather than acting in an operant manner.
Similarly for dogs, growling, hackling, lunging, and snapping may be symptoms of an innate desire for self-preservation when they are confronted with stimuli that make them fearful.
For dogs, growling, hackling, lunging, and snapping may be symptoms of an innate desire for self- preservation when they are confronted with stimuli that make them fearful.
Symptoms of fear are not conscious reactions. Just as you don't choose to make the hairs on the back of your neck stand up when you see a snake or spider, your dog doesn't decide, "That dog makes me nervous. I should raise my hackles and growl!"
Even if you know deep breathing may help alleviate your fear, chances are that the thought doesn't pop into your mind when you most need it—in the face of extreme anxiety or fear. Likewise, your lunging dog's mind may be more focused on surviving than on performing even well-proofed cues for behaviors that are incompatible with the aggressive display.
Giving treats to a growling dog
Operant conditioning is a way all animals learn; it's based on the theory that the relative frequency or infrequency of a behavior is controlled by the behavior's consequences. In operant conditioning, the dog learns that his behavior can result in one of four possible consequences: positive reinforcement (good stuff happens), negative reinforcement (bad stuff stops happening), positive punishment (bad stuff starts happening), or negative punishment (good stuff stops happening). If behaviors are reinforced, they are more likely to occur in the future. If behaviors are punished, they are less likely to be offered in the future.
Remember Pavlov's dogs? Dogs salivate when presented with food. This is not an operant behavior, but a physiological response. Pavlov learned that after repeated pairings (lab coat or bell reliably predicts the arrival of food) previously neutral stimuli were able to elicit the same salivary response that the presentation of food would elicit.
Think of Pavlov's dogs when using classical conditioning to modify aggressive or reactive behavior. The stimulus (trigger) should predict the arrival of food—just as a bell or lab coat would for Pavlov's dogs. The reinforcement is contingent not upon the dog's behavior, but upon the presentation of the stimulus. The dogs got fed no matter what they were doing.
Just as in Pavlov's experiment where the lab coat, rather than the dogs' behavior, predicted the delivery of the primary reinforcer, the appearance of the other dog on our walk predicted the delivery of my treats.
Desensitization and counter conditioning
When you are working with aggression and reactivity, the trigger (generally other dogs and/or people) is no longer a neutral stimulus to the dog. Using desensitization, it's possible to "neutralize" or "shrink" the stimulus by manipulating distance. Counter conditioning uses a primary reinforcer to classically condition a positive emotional response.
To begin desensitizing the dog, accurately identify the triggers—what is the dog reacting to? Once triggers are identified, decide what the dog's threshold is for each trigger—how far away does the dog need to be from another dog without reacting? In other words, to desensitize, manage the environment to avoid provoking a full-blown reaction; remove the opportunity for the dog to exhibit reactive behavior.
To desensitize, manage the environment to avoid provoking a full-blown reaction.
The dog should notice, and even feel mildly anxious about, the stimulus at the threshold distance. To determine the threshold distance, watch the dog's body language—what are the first steps of the reaction? If your dog is happily taking treats at a distance, but gets mouthy and starts chomping on your fingers to get the treats as you move closer, you are nearing his threshold. Dogs cannot eat when they are extremely stressed, so if your hungry dog will not eat even the best of treats, he is over his threshold. The best thing to do at that point is to create distance using a previously taught "Let's go!" cue.
When the dog's triggers and the threshold distances are known, it's time to begin counter conditioning. Counter conditioning conditions an emotional response that is incompatible with the aggressive behavior; the goal is called a positive conditioned emotional response (CER). For counter conditioning, you will need some great treats, and could also benefit from the help of one or more stimulus dog/handler teams. This training works best if your dog is somewhat hungry (has not just finished a meal).
The CER is achieved using what Jean Donaldson has called the "open bar, closed bar" technique. When your dog sees another dog, the bar opens immediately. When the dog is no longer in sight, the bar closes. These are the rules—regardless of how your dog is behaving. The appearance of the other dog, not your dog's behavior, predicts the delivery of the reinforcer, a reinforcer that is only provided in this context. What should you serve at "the bar?" Really good stuff! Find out what your dog loves best, and only give it to him when the counter conditioning bar is open.
Over time a dog's threshold will decrease. Only move closer when your dog is able to see another dog and look back at you happily, tail wagging, expecting delivery of the ultimate treat—that is the CER you seek. End each session on a success, and always leave your dog wanting more.
Remember to reflect the behavior you want your dog to display, also. If you tense up when you see another dog, that tension will travel down the leash to your dog. Go for practice walks without your dog and rehearse deep breathing when you see another dog, so that you can display the same relaxed confidence you'd like to see in your dog.
Being the crazy dog lady is a good thing
Be prepared for the likelihood that your neighbors will not understand the training you are doing. Remember that it's your job to be your dog's guardian—gaining his trust by not allowing bad things to happen to him.
If your dog is aggressive toward other dogs and a neighbor walking her dog says, "My dog is friendly!" as she approaches, be prepared to intervene on behalf of your dog. Create distance, move in another direction. If your dog is afraid of children, use your body to block a child from running up to your dog. You may need to be the "crazy dog lady" in the neighborhood to rehabilitate your dog successfully.
Sometimes doing what is right for a dog is not easy. There is a stigma associated with owning an "aggressive" dog. There is also great responsibility, and great liability.
A supportive network can boost your morale and commitment if you get frustrated. It's important to establish a support network that includes, at minimum, a behavior-savvy veterinarian and a behaviorist with experience using desensitization and counter conditioning (D/CC) techniques to modify aggression and reactive behavior in dogs.
Ideally, your network should also include some supportive family and friends, and, whenever possible, other pet owners who have been through similar experiences with their own dogs.
Other considerations for aggressive and reactive dogs
Working closely with your veterinarian and behaviorist, you may find that additional tools beyond D/CC are required. More elaborate management techniques may be necessary. You may also need to desensitize your dog to wearing a muzzle if he has a well-established biting history, or if you are doubtful of your ability to manipulate the environment so that your dog can remain below his threshold consistently.
Some fearful and aggressive dogs benefit greatly from medication. These medications are not tranquilizers, but are medications given to correct chemical imbalances in the brain. Providing a fluoxetine prescription for a dog or human is just like providing insulin to a diabetic patient—both are medications intended to correct hormonal and chemical imbalances within the body. Unfortunately, I've seen a cultural bias against pharmaceutical treatment of mental illness extend to four-legged creatures, too.
All the training in the world cannot correct a behavior problem that is caused by pain or faulty brain functioning. But, medications are not a cure-all either. Just as humans taking anti-depressants see the most rehabilitative results when they attend therapy sessions, medication for reactivity must be accompanied by appropriate and thorough dog training. A full medical evaluation is required for all dogs displaying aggression problems, and a complete thyroid panel is strongly advised.
A number of holistic treatments may also be helpful in managing reactivity and aggression. It never hurts to bring a holistic veterinarian to the consultation team. A good holistic vet should be able to talk to you about how diet and dietary changes can contribute to or improve your dog's behavior. He or she may be able to suggest herbs, supplements, flower essences, homeopathic treatments, or massage techniques to set your dog up for rehabilitative success.
For a dog owner there is no reinforcement greater than seeing a rehabilitated dog greet life without fear.
Rehabilitating an aggressive dog is not easy. It can be a frustrating process, and can seem as if you are taking one step forward and two steps back. However, for a dog owner there is no reinforcement greater than seeing a rehabilitated dog greet life without fear. So, be crazy if necessary—the results are well worth it!
About the author Casey Lomonaco, KPA CTP, APDT, is the owner of Rewarding Behaviors Dog Training in Binghamton, NY. Casey offers private and group instruction in collaboration with Steve Benjamin, KPA faculty, CPDT, of Clicking with Canines, and Abbie Tamber, KPA CTP.
Wednesday, November 4, 2009
How to Create a Reactive Human in 10 Minutes or Less
Casey Lomonaco's picture
By Casey Lomonaco on 06/01/2009
Filed in - Fundamentals - Training Theory
"Be nice! Be nice!"
Recently, I was chatting in the classroom with a few of our more experienced students. They mentioned encountering the following scenario quite often while exercising their dogs at a local park:
Individual is walking dog on leash. Dog sees other dog, barks, leash goes tight. Owner pulls dog back on leash, saying, "Be nice! Be nice!" and fumbling with a tight leash until the distraction has passed.
A happy greeting
KPA students Jules Nye and Alyson
Zimmerman initiate a happy greeting.
Sounds like a recipe for reactivity, right? In the scenario above, the sight of another dog becomes a prediction of a negative experience—being corrected and jerked around on a leash. There is a good chance that this dog may develop a leash reactivity problem. The sequence then becomes:
Individual is walking dog on leash. Another dog handler team approaches. The dog sees the other team, anticipates an unpleasant consequence, and reacts in an attempt to the increase distance from the perceived threat, generally reacting until the distance from the trigger has gone to a sub-threshold level.
An experiment in creating reactivity
I noted a similar situation at our play group for dogs. One particular attendee (we'll call her Rachel) always corrected her dog (we'll call him Boo) when he barked. The barks were a solicitation to play, yet they were corrected each time they occurred.
If I had a nickel for every time I explained to Rachel why she should not correct his barking, it would have easily paid for my ClickerExpo registration and all the associated expenses!
tug greeting
The happy greeting of Jules and
Alyson interrupted by a tug.
Boo and I were frustrated; it seemed as though Rachel was just "not getting it," so she was frustrated as well. I did not want to remove the dog from the group, because his continued attendance was vital to his socialization. My only option was to make his owner, Rachel, understand the reactivity problem so that her dog could continue to get the benefit from the group.
I decided to conduct an experiment, one that I hoped would illustrate for Rachel how her own behavior influenced Boo's.
You don't want to play tug?
One Sunday at group, I followed Rachel around the classroom (as she followed Boo). Every time she looked at someone, I lightly tugged on the fabric of her shirt. Every time she tried to talk to someone, same consequence.
It took less than ten minutes and exactly five shirt tugs until I'd created a reactive person.
After tug number five, Rachel's head whipped around to look at me. "What are you doing? Why do you keep doing that to me?"
My only option was to make his owner understand the reactivity problem so that her dog could continue to get the benefit from the group.
Understandably, she was annoyed. Another ten minutes of this experiment might have led to some redirected aggression toward the individual applying the aversive—me! I explained to Rachel that the way she felt was likely how Boo felt about being corrected whenever he tried to approach other dogs for play.
The relationship between stimulus and consequence
Rachel liked the other people at play group. She was not a "reactive human" by nature; her frustrated response was conditioned by the application of aversives. All it took was a handful of shirt tugs (pun intended) to condition her that way. It did not take Rachel long at all to associate the consequence with the stimulus that predicted the consequence.
In Rachel's case, the selected consequence was a very mild aversive, certainly less intense than the physical and verbal reprimands dogs frequently experience when they are on-leash in the presence of their canine peers. For Rachel, I had not paired the aversive with any verbal correction.
My hope was that this lesson would illustrate for Rachel the powerful effect a few seemingly light corrections could have on her perception of, and reaction to, a previously positive stimulus: socialization with other people. Prior to the shirt tugs, I had been a positive stimulus, but Rachel's frustration with me when she was corrected was evident. Like Rachel, many reactive dogs have been conditioned by their owners, albeit inadvertently, to react aggressively.
Many reactive dogs have been conditioned by their owners, albeit inadvertently, to react aggressively.
If one of these dogs lives in your home, do not beat yourself up. No trainer is without her share of mistakes; mistakes are a part of learning. Take advantage of the opportunity to learn more and become a better dog handler, and every dog you ever meet will thank you for it!
Reactivity: on-leash vs. off-leash
In many circumstances, reactive behavior breaks down when the owner cannot administer a correction. Often, dogs that display "leash aggression" are able to play well with other dogs when provided with that opportunity in a safe, relatively large off-leash environment.
In the human example, if I had been across the room from Rachel, I would not have been able to correct her. If my ability to deliver the correction were taken away, she would likely feel more confident about interacting with her peers. Rachel would have been more focused on socialization and less concerned with where I was and when the next tug might be coming.
The experiment continues...toward success!
The experiment continued later in the class. I clicked Rachel for looking at other people, approaching other people, talking to other people. Reinforcements were varied: Tootsie Rolls or nickels.
After a few clicks, Rachel was feeling more positive about me, so I pulled her aside to talk for a moment. I asked her how she felt about the shirt tug experience compared to how she felt about being clicked for correct, socially appropriate behavior.
Rachel said that at first she was very frustrated with me, wondering why I was "nagging." She said she felt silly being clicked later in class, but that she also felt much more relaxed and was having much more fun then.
After having been both corrected and reinforced, Rachel understood how her behavior, even slight tension on the leash or a change in breathing rhythm (sharp intake of breath), could change Boo's perception of a situation.
We went on to talk about healthy play, calming signals, and stress behaviors. Increasing her knowledge of canine body language was critical to ensuring future training success.
Increasing her knowledge of canine body language was critical to ensuring future training success.
Re-trained now
Both Rachel and Boo are happy to have an enhanced understanding of each other, as evidenced by their continued progress in training and socialization. Now that she has "been" Boo, Rachel can modify her own behavior to set Boo up for success. I no longer see the tight leash or hear verbal corrections from Rachel.
Instead, I see a dog happily interacting with his canine friends during play session, a dog that willingly returns his focus to his handler for training activities. I see a dog-savvy handler who recognizes when her dog is engaging in healthy play, and when he's beginning to show stress and needs a break from the action.
I see a dog/handler team set up for success; all is as it should be.
If this experiment helps you, as it helped Rachel and Boo, understand your reactive dog any better, I'm sure even Rachel would be pleased. That kind of growth and progress is worth the ten minutes when Rachel was annoyed me and my experiment in creating a reactive human.
Note: Thanks to Karen Pryor Academy (KPA) students Jules Nye (in white, www.sitstayandplay.com), and Alyson Zimmerman (in black, www.thefosterdogchronicles.com) for re-enacting the reactivce human experiment for our photos.
About the author Casey Lomonaco, KPA CTP, APDT, is the owner of Rewarding Behaviors Dog Training in Binghamton, NY. Casey offers private and group instruction in collaboration with Steve Benjamin, KPA faculty, CPDT, of Clicking with Canines, and Abbie Tamber, KPA CTP.
By Casey Lomonaco on 06/01/2009
Filed in - Fundamentals - Training Theory
"Be nice! Be nice!"
Recently, I was chatting in the classroom with a few of our more experienced students. They mentioned encountering the following scenario quite often while exercising their dogs at a local park:
Individual is walking dog on leash. Dog sees other dog, barks, leash goes tight. Owner pulls dog back on leash, saying, "Be nice! Be nice!" and fumbling with a tight leash until the distraction has passed.
A happy greeting
KPA students Jules Nye and Alyson
Zimmerman initiate a happy greeting.
Sounds like a recipe for reactivity, right? In the scenario above, the sight of another dog becomes a prediction of a negative experience—being corrected and jerked around on a leash. There is a good chance that this dog may develop a leash reactivity problem. The sequence then becomes:
Individual is walking dog on leash. Another dog handler team approaches. The dog sees the other team, anticipates an unpleasant consequence, and reacts in an attempt to the increase distance from the perceived threat, generally reacting until the distance from the trigger has gone to a sub-threshold level.
An experiment in creating reactivity
I noted a similar situation at our play group for dogs. One particular attendee (we'll call her Rachel) always corrected her dog (we'll call him Boo) when he barked. The barks were a solicitation to play, yet they were corrected each time they occurred.
If I had a nickel for every time I explained to Rachel why she should not correct his barking, it would have easily paid for my ClickerExpo registration and all the associated expenses!
tug greeting
The happy greeting of Jules and
Alyson interrupted by a tug.
Boo and I were frustrated; it seemed as though Rachel was just "not getting it," so she was frustrated as well. I did not want to remove the dog from the group, because his continued attendance was vital to his socialization. My only option was to make his owner, Rachel, understand the reactivity problem so that her dog could continue to get the benefit from the group.
I decided to conduct an experiment, one that I hoped would illustrate for Rachel how her own behavior influenced Boo's.
You don't want to play tug?
One Sunday at group, I followed Rachel around the classroom (as she followed Boo). Every time she looked at someone, I lightly tugged on the fabric of her shirt. Every time she tried to talk to someone, same consequence.
It took less than ten minutes and exactly five shirt tugs until I'd created a reactive person.
After tug number five, Rachel's head whipped around to look at me. "What are you doing? Why do you keep doing that to me?"
My only option was to make his owner understand the reactivity problem so that her dog could continue to get the benefit from the group.
Understandably, she was annoyed. Another ten minutes of this experiment might have led to some redirected aggression toward the individual applying the aversive—me! I explained to Rachel that the way she felt was likely how Boo felt about being corrected whenever he tried to approach other dogs for play.
The relationship between stimulus and consequence
Rachel liked the other people at play group. She was not a "reactive human" by nature; her frustrated response was conditioned by the application of aversives. All it took was a handful of shirt tugs (pun intended) to condition her that way. It did not take Rachel long at all to associate the consequence with the stimulus that predicted the consequence.
In Rachel's case, the selected consequence was a very mild aversive, certainly less intense than the physical and verbal reprimands dogs frequently experience when they are on-leash in the presence of their canine peers. For Rachel, I had not paired the aversive with any verbal correction.
My hope was that this lesson would illustrate for Rachel the powerful effect a few seemingly light corrections could have on her perception of, and reaction to, a previously positive stimulus: socialization with other people. Prior to the shirt tugs, I had been a positive stimulus, but Rachel's frustration with me when she was corrected was evident. Like Rachel, many reactive dogs have been conditioned by their owners, albeit inadvertently, to react aggressively.
Many reactive dogs have been conditioned by their owners, albeit inadvertently, to react aggressively.
If one of these dogs lives in your home, do not beat yourself up. No trainer is without her share of mistakes; mistakes are a part of learning. Take advantage of the opportunity to learn more and become a better dog handler, and every dog you ever meet will thank you for it!
Reactivity: on-leash vs. off-leash
In many circumstances, reactive behavior breaks down when the owner cannot administer a correction. Often, dogs that display "leash aggression" are able to play well with other dogs when provided with that opportunity in a safe, relatively large off-leash environment.
In the human example, if I had been across the room from Rachel, I would not have been able to correct her. If my ability to deliver the correction were taken away, she would likely feel more confident about interacting with her peers. Rachel would have been more focused on socialization and less concerned with where I was and when the next tug might be coming.
The experiment continues...toward success!
The experiment continued later in the class. I clicked Rachel for looking at other people, approaching other people, talking to other people. Reinforcements were varied: Tootsie Rolls or nickels.
After a few clicks, Rachel was feeling more positive about me, so I pulled her aside to talk for a moment. I asked her how she felt about the shirt tug experience compared to how she felt about being clicked for correct, socially appropriate behavior.
Rachel said that at first she was very frustrated with me, wondering why I was "nagging." She said she felt silly being clicked later in class, but that she also felt much more relaxed and was having much more fun then.
After having been both corrected and reinforced, Rachel understood how her behavior, even slight tension on the leash or a change in breathing rhythm (sharp intake of breath), could change Boo's perception of a situation.
We went on to talk about healthy play, calming signals, and stress behaviors. Increasing her knowledge of canine body language was critical to ensuring future training success.
Increasing her knowledge of canine body language was critical to ensuring future training success.
Re-trained now
Both Rachel and Boo are happy to have an enhanced understanding of each other, as evidenced by their continued progress in training and socialization. Now that she has "been" Boo, Rachel can modify her own behavior to set Boo up for success. I no longer see the tight leash or hear verbal corrections from Rachel.
Instead, I see a dog happily interacting with his canine friends during play session, a dog that willingly returns his focus to his handler for training activities. I see a dog-savvy handler who recognizes when her dog is engaging in healthy play, and when he's beginning to show stress and needs a break from the action.
I see a dog/handler team set up for success; all is as it should be.
If this experiment helps you, as it helped Rachel and Boo, understand your reactive dog any better, I'm sure even Rachel would be pleased. That kind of growth and progress is worth the ten minutes when Rachel was annoyed me and my experiment in creating a reactive human.
Note: Thanks to Karen Pryor Academy (KPA) students Jules Nye (in white, www.sitstayandplay.com), and Alyson Zimmerman (in black, www.thefosterdogchronicles.com) for re-enacting the reactivce human experiment for our photos.
About the author Casey Lomonaco, KPA CTP, APDT, is the owner of Rewarding Behaviors Dog Training in Binghamton, NY. Casey offers private and group instruction in collaboration with Steve Benjamin, KPA faculty, CPDT, of Clicking with Canines, and Abbie Tamber, KPA CTP.
Sunday, November 1, 2009
What does your dog need?
I get many calls from clients that their dogs are "misbehaving" and one of my first questions is, "What types of activities do you do with your dog?". Many say they walk their dog a few times a week if they have time. Well then it is no wonder they are seeing what they call "poor behavior".
Dogs need exercise, mental stimulation, jobs, and companionship.
Most dogs do not need the amount of exercise that one would think. I have a border collie and many people say, "I bet you have to take him out for miles and miles a day?" and the truth is that he only gets a short walk in the morning everyday with my other dog along with mental stimulation, doing his job, and lots of companionship. There are many ways to exercise your dog which include: walking, jogging, hiking, swimming, dog sports, fetching a ball or frisbee, and using a treadmill (but teach them how to like it by shaping it with a clicker). However, I am sure there are more ways to exercise your dog. I once read a bumper sticker that said, "If your dog is fat, then you are not getting enough exercise", so get out there and have fun with your dog. A dog owner could take their dog out for daily walks of about 20-30 minutes a day and probably see a change in behavior. However, if they also incorporate mental stimulation, a job, and companionship they will see a totally different dog. They will see a cherished furry family member!
In addition to daily exercise a dog needs mental stimulation. Mental stimulation consists of things like learning tricks, having to find their meal in stead of just getting it in a bowl, playing games that require a dog to think and work on impulse control.
Anytime a dog owner teaches their dog a trick it helps strengthen the canine/human bond and can mentally wear out a dog. Not to mention tricks are fun for the dog and the owner.
So many people are stuck on feeding their dogs from a bowl and that food is a great thing to use for training and teaching the dog that nothing in life is free. A food bowl that just sits there all day with food in it is free food. A dog that has to work for his food will appreciate it more, learn that good stuff comes from his owner, and it is mentally stimulating to have to search and find the food.
My suggestion for creative ways to feed your dog is to hide food around the house and have the dog find it, put the dogs food in a buster cube or toy that holds food and when the dog knocks it around the food comes out, stuff Kongs with peanut butter, cream cheese, or squirt cheese, and mix in some kibble if you want, leave out nylabones or appropriate chew bones and get creative. This can help with separation anxiety and prevent the dog from boredom and save your furniture from being chewed.
I also mentioned impulse control and an example of this would be to have your dog sit, stay, or do something for his food and then be released to go and eat. One game that I love to play with dogs to teach impulse control is a game called, "Go wild and freeze". The game works best when the family plays with the dog. Each family member could have a few treats on them before they start the game. To help reinforce good behavior. Someone will yell "go Wild" and everyone runs around playing with the dog and then someone will yell "freeze" and everyone will freeze, but the person closest to the dog will ask the dog to sit. When the dog sits, give him a treat, and then the game can continue. Soon, the dog will just freeze because everyone else did and the reward will be to get the "go Wild" cue again. This not only teaches impulse control, but is mentally stimulating, and gives the dog exercise. I love it when an activity gives you more bang for your buck. :)
One can also use the dogs food to get him used to being handled (your vet will appreciate it if you got your dog used to being handled). Take a handful of his dog food and as you give it to him at the same time with the other hand massage his shoulder, neck, ears, paws, but do this slowly and if the dog pulls away, STOP feeding. With every handful of food you feed touch and massage a different spot on your dog. This will help the dog pair the food with the touch and soon you will have a dog that likes to be touched.
Give your dog a job! Don't just take him to the dog park, do something constructive with him. Research your dogs breed and find an activity that will suit that breed. My border collie and husky mix's job is agility and canine freestyle. I tried herding with them and they loved it, but I did not. However, they love agility and doing canine freestyle. My border collie also has another job to fetch a frisbee, ball, and play. My husky mix is starting tracking and I am sure she will love that. So, find an activity you can get your dog into. It will keep you both busy and having fun together. Just about any breed can do agility, canine freestyle, tracking, carting, rally obedience, play fetch, or dock dive but the point is to get them into something and spend time with them. Don't just get your cup of coffee and let them do whatever they want at the dog park. Dog's at the dog park could be teaching your dog bad habits and your dog could have a bad experience there. It is our responsibility as a dog owner to do the very best for our dog and that includes keeping them out of danger and setting them up to succeed.
Lastly, give your dog the companionship they deserve. Dogs are pack animals and love being with their humans and other dogs. Take them places, hang out, massage them, treat them well, make sure you know the other dogs you let them play with, respect and love them as a dogs life is too short and hopefully your dog is your best friend.
So, get out there and start having fun with your dogs & make their life enriching!
Dogs need exercise, mental stimulation, jobs, and companionship.
Most dogs do not need the amount of exercise that one would think. I have a border collie and many people say, "I bet you have to take him out for miles and miles a day?" and the truth is that he only gets a short walk in the morning everyday with my other dog along with mental stimulation, doing his job, and lots of companionship. There are many ways to exercise your dog which include: walking, jogging, hiking, swimming, dog sports, fetching a ball or frisbee, and using a treadmill (but teach them how to like it by shaping it with a clicker). However, I am sure there are more ways to exercise your dog. I once read a bumper sticker that said, "If your dog is fat, then you are not getting enough exercise", so get out there and have fun with your dog. A dog owner could take their dog out for daily walks of about 20-30 minutes a day and probably see a change in behavior. However, if they also incorporate mental stimulation, a job, and companionship they will see a totally different dog. They will see a cherished furry family member!
In addition to daily exercise a dog needs mental stimulation. Mental stimulation consists of things like learning tricks, having to find their meal in stead of just getting it in a bowl, playing games that require a dog to think and work on impulse control.
Anytime a dog owner teaches their dog a trick it helps strengthen the canine/human bond and can mentally wear out a dog. Not to mention tricks are fun for the dog and the owner.
So many people are stuck on feeding their dogs from a bowl and that food is a great thing to use for training and teaching the dog that nothing in life is free. A food bowl that just sits there all day with food in it is free food. A dog that has to work for his food will appreciate it more, learn that good stuff comes from his owner, and it is mentally stimulating to have to search and find the food.
My suggestion for creative ways to feed your dog is to hide food around the house and have the dog find it, put the dogs food in a buster cube or toy that holds food and when the dog knocks it around the food comes out, stuff Kongs with peanut butter, cream cheese, or squirt cheese, and mix in some kibble if you want, leave out nylabones or appropriate chew bones and get creative. This can help with separation anxiety and prevent the dog from boredom and save your furniture from being chewed.
I also mentioned impulse control and an example of this would be to have your dog sit, stay, or do something for his food and then be released to go and eat. One game that I love to play with dogs to teach impulse control is a game called, "Go wild and freeze". The game works best when the family plays with the dog. Each family member could have a few treats on them before they start the game. To help reinforce good behavior. Someone will yell "go Wild" and everyone runs around playing with the dog and then someone will yell "freeze" and everyone will freeze, but the person closest to the dog will ask the dog to sit. When the dog sits, give him a treat, and then the game can continue. Soon, the dog will just freeze because everyone else did and the reward will be to get the "go Wild" cue again. This not only teaches impulse control, but is mentally stimulating, and gives the dog exercise. I love it when an activity gives you more bang for your buck. :)
One can also use the dogs food to get him used to being handled (your vet will appreciate it if you got your dog used to being handled). Take a handful of his dog food and as you give it to him at the same time with the other hand massage his shoulder, neck, ears, paws, but do this slowly and if the dog pulls away, STOP feeding. With every handful of food you feed touch and massage a different spot on your dog. This will help the dog pair the food with the touch and soon you will have a dog that likes to be touched.
Give your dog a job! Don't just take him to the dog park, do something constructive with him. Research your dogs breed and find an activity that will suit that breed. My border collie and husky mix's job is agility and canine freestyle. I tried herding with them and they loved it, but I did not. However, they love agility and doing canine freestyle. My border collie also has another job to fetch a frisbee, ball, and play. My husky mix is starting tracking and I am sure she will love that. So, find an activity you can get your dog into. It will keep you both busy and having fun together. Just about any breed can do agility, canine freestyle, tracking, carting, rally obedience, play fetch, or dock dive but the point is to get them into something and spend time with them. Don't just get your cup of coffee and let them do whatever they want at the dog park. Dog's at the dog park could be teaching your dog bad habits and your dog could have a bad experience there. It is our responsibility as a dog owner to do the very best for our dog and that includes keeping them out of danger and setting them up to succeed.
Lastly, give your dog the companionship they deserve. Dogs are pack animals and love being with their humans and other dogs. Take them places, hang out, massage them, treat them well, make sure you know the other dogs you let them play with, respect and love them as a dogs life is too short and hopefully your dog is your best friend.
So, get out there and start having fun with your dogs & make their life enriching!
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
Throw this dog product away today!
by Casey Lomonaco
There are a lot of dog training “tools” that I prefer not to use, but the one piece of equipment I wish every dog owner would throw away is…
THE FOOD BOWL
Most dog owners feed their dogs every day (hopefully). Hopefully, people measure out their dog’s food into appropriate portions and provide one or two scheduled feedings per day. Some people choose to “free feed,” which means food is constantly available in the dog’s bowl, and the dog may help himself whenever he so chooses.
WHAT MAKES DOGS DOGS
Q: What is the evolutionary purpose of a dog? Why did dogs evolve from wolves, and what makes them “domesticated”?
A: If you haven’t read it yet, pick up a copy of Ray Coppinger’s book Dogs: A New Understanding of Canine Origin, Behavior and Evolution. Coppinger has a PhD in Biology and has devoted his life to the study of dog behavior, evolution, and origins. Coppinger asserts that dogs evolved from wolves as humans evolved from hunter-gatherer societies to permanent settlements. Human settlements created a unique ecological niche; what we would refer to as “garbage dumps.”
Garbage dumps create free food sources for wild animals. If you don’t believe this, you obviously have not spent much time in the Adirondack forests near any dumpsters and seen the black bears that congregate to feed around these “free” food sources.
In any case, garbage dumps were not a factor when human populations were mobile/unsettled. When humans congregate in a designated area for an extended period of time, waste accumulates.
Coppinger asserts that it was in fact human refuse which originally drew wolves to our settlements (charming, no?). Within the wolf population, as in all populations, there were behavioral variances. Those wolves which tended to stick around the garbage dumps despite the presence of humans were more likely to cash in on the ecological bonanza of free eats provided by permanent human settlements. Those that were spooked more easily and would retreat in the presence of humans missed the spoils of our refuse. The phenomena at work here is called “flight distance.”
The wolves that had a lower flight distance threshold evolved differently than their less companionable, considerably more suspicious, kin. In relatively short time, these wolves adapted to the human (aka “free food”) niche. Along with this evolution came proportionately smaller skulls, brains, and teeth. It requires less brain power to get free food than hunt for your own.
WE ARE THE ULTIMATE FOOD BOWL
OK, so what does all this have to do with anything (besides the fact that if you’re a dog nerd like me, Coppinger’s book reads like a page-turning thriller)?
It has everything to do with building a relationship with your dog. Dogs became dogs through seeking food from people. It’s what makes them dogs. It taps into their very “doggyness.”
This is what makes positive reinforcement training especially valuable in dog training - it speaks to the very nature of what is dog. Dogs became dogs through seeking food from humans, not through imagining us as “concept wolves” on two legs. Providing food, not being the alpha, is at the very nature of how dogs evolved to be our “best friends.”
NEVER LOOK A GIFT HORSE IN THE MOUTH - PUT A PRIMARY REINFORCER IN THE MOUTH INSTEAD!
Dogs love food. Period. Any creature of any species that is not “food motivated” would be dead.
So why let that valuable reinforce go to waste? Put it to work for you!
A DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE ON NLIF
I grew up in an area where dogs lived off leash from puppyhood. It was a rural environment, where resident dogs spent hours running through woods, field, and stream with neighborhood kids and other neighborhood dogs. They chased squirrels and deer. They dug holes wherever the hell they wanted. They came home at night exhausted, dreaming sweetly of the hundreds of prey chases and scent trails they followed. They were mentally and physically satisfied, happy dogs. Nobody really took their dogs to classes, and most of us were proud if our dogs could “sit,” “down,” “shake,” and “rollover.”
Our dogs didn’t run away. Sadly, some fell victim to the road, but none of them ran away.
Now I live in a suburban environment. Despite loving my neighborhood, I still feel caged in. I am, after all, a country girl at heart and yearn for a life outside of the city (if you choose to call Binghamton a city).
Here, if a dog gets out of their fenced in yard or escapes their leash or tie out, they take off. Run as far as they can, as fast as they can. Why?
DOGS AND MODERN LIFE
Most dogs today don’t live this type of life. For safety reasons, we often need to employ management tools like fences and tethers to keep dogs safe. Dogs no longer get to roam, freely interacting with others from their kind when and if they choose, chasing each prey animal they come across, digging wherever they wanted for as long as they wanted, sniffing a hundred scent trails.
Most dogs are forced to fit into the confines of modern society - long work hours, tired owners with more obligations than they can realistically handle. Few of us can provide this type of lifestyle for our dogs. The trouble is, just because we cannot provide this type of lifestyle doesn’t mean our dogs crave it any less. This is the infamous “culture clash.” Modern human lifestyles often don’t provide anywhere near the mental and physical stimulation requirements required by our canine companions.
Dogs are an interesting amalgamation. They have the same hunting instincts as their wolf ancestors, but a new and different perspective on food seeking which incorporates dependence on humans. A truly happy dog will have both aspects of his personality satisfied through his interactions with his owner and his daily life.
TAP INTO YOUR DOG’S INSTINCTS
You may not be able to provide your dog with five to eight hours a day of off leash romps through the forests, meadows and streams. You may not be able to provide unlimited squirrel chases and opportunities to interact with other dogs, horses, humans, cats, etc., at your dog’s every whim. Due to the constraints of my current living environment, I often can’t give that to my dogs either. I feel your pain.
Let’s talk about that first instinct, the one that links our dogs with wolves: the desire to hunt. Dogs want to stalk, chase, grab, and shake prey. It is my personal belief that opportunity to participate in the prey sequence qualifies as a primary reinforcer for most dogs. It taps into their very “wolfiness.” We can do this from applying the Premack Principle.
The Premack Principle asserts that more probable behaviors can reinforce less probable behaviors. Have a “squirrelly” dog? The opportunity to chase squirrels (more probable behavior) can be used to reinforce a recall or focus (a less probable behavior). In laymen’s terms, “if you eat your spinach, you can have your ice cream.”
Most of these aspects of the prey sequence can be manipulated through training in the form of stalking, tug, and retrieving games. Using these types of games taps into each dog’s inherent “wolfiness,” the wild predator living within each of our beloved doggy companions, from Chihuahua to Malamute.
So how do we tap into their “dogginess,” that which distinguishes our dogs from their wolfy predecessors?
Through behavioral contingencies which include food provision (in short, positive reinforcement training!).
Another way we can meld the dual doggy needs of engaging in “wolfiness” (hunting practices) and “dogginess” (seeking food from humans) is through incorporating food rewards into games which tap into the predatory sequence.
This means introducing food dispensing toys - Kongs, Tug a Jugs, Buster Cubes, Canine Genius toys, Nina Ottosson toys, etc. Dogs want to hunt for food, to work at it, to dissect items to obtain nutrition. Food dispensing toys fulfill both of these needs.
This also means introducing food-seeking games - hide and seek, “find it”, and introducing tracking exercises. The cheapest and easiest food-seeking game is what I call a “kibble hunt.” Instead of throwing your dog’s food in a bowl, make a kibble hunt’ hiding dinner throughout the yard or the house and letting your dog find his food with his nose. Now, instead of inhaling his food in .8 seconds, it takes your dog half an hour, forty five minutes of brainwork/mental stimulation to tire him out.
You can also tap into your dog’s innate desire to seek food from humans through positive reinforcement training techniques.
PUT YOUR DOG’S FOOD TO WORK FOR YOU
If you’re going to feed your dog anyway (and I hope you are!), make him work for it. Providing plenty of predatory outlets will tap into your dog’s “wolfiness” - chase games, tug, opportunity to “dissect” toys to retrieve food, or (if you’re like me) feeding a carefully constructed prey model raw diet.
Just as no dog will be entirely happy without having his “wolfy quota” filled, no dog will be happy without having his “doggy quota” fulfilled.
Since we cannot often provide the full doggy quota of unlimited time bounding through field and stream with conspecifics as well as favored humans, we must tap into that basic need in other ways. This should be through increased physical exercise, play opportunities, and working for his food. Remember, this taps into the core of his very dogginess.
Food dispensing toys, kibble hunts, tracking and other scent games, shaping and capturing exercises, all tap into what makes your dog a dog and is at the heart of what makes dogs want to connect with us. It is the very source of their domestication.
A WOLF IN DOG’S CLOTHING?
If you follow dog training discussions at all, you know there is a pretty distinct divide between those that feel positive reinforcement training is the way and those that feel techniques grounded in dominance speculation are more appropriate.
The truth is, neither camp is right.
In order for a dog to be fulfilled, you must tap into both his “wolfiness” and his “dogness”.
His “wolfiness” is not related to “alpha hierarchies” which have been disproven to science but to his evolutionary history as a predator - one who wants to chase prey, dig after it, chase it, catch it, grab it, bite it, shake it, dissect it, and consume it. Fulfilling these basic needs is provided not through intimidation, corrections, or “domination” but through play which taps into these reservoirs of carnivorous drive - tug, fetch, dissection, shaking toys, etc.
His dogginess is not related to wilfulness, stubbornness, or a “desire to please” but to an innate desire to seek food, shelter, and security from humans. Again, this is what makes a dog a dog. The reservoir of dogginess can only be filled through providing appropriate interaction with conspecifics and in the ways in which we provide our dogs with the primary resource, food.
Hopefully, this entry illustrates the importance of food in dog training and the influence of food on the evolutionary history of dogs as they relate to humans.
Many critics of positive training techniques will argue that it is “unnatural” for dogs to learn from humans through food rewards but that it is “natural” for dogs to view humans as their pack leader and through physical corrections.
I argue that we should leave the physical corrections to the dogs, and let them use those methods to instruct each other regarding the behaviors which are/are not acceptable to their species; and that we use our bigger brains, opposable thumbs, and ability to manipulate food delivery to our advantage while providing satisfactory outlets for out dogs’ desires to hunt as descendants of the wolf through play.
Is it just me, or does this make way more sense than discussing “energy,” “auras,” and “rank” in manipulating dog behavior?
My raw feeding friends call our dogs “kitchen wolves.” This inherently makes sense to me. In spirit, each dog is a wolf. When it comes to an empty stomach, they’re all dogs, looking for a meal from a human who can’t resist a cute face or good behavior.
SUMMARY
You’re going to feed your dog anyway. At least make it interesting for him! Put your dog to work for his food through training, kibble hunts, food dispensing toys, and seeking games. Food should be interesting to a dog, not a flash in the pan!
Casey Lomonaco, KPA CTP
Rewarding Behaviors Dog Training
There are a lot of dog training “tools” that I prefer not to use, but the one piece of equipment I wish every dog owner would throw away is…
THE FOOD BOWL
Most dog owners feed their dogs every day (hopefully). Hopefully, people measure out their dog’s food into appropriate portions and provide one or two scheduled feedings per day. Some people choose to “free feed,” which means food is constantly available in the dog’s bowl, and the dog may help himself whenever he so chooses.
WHAT MAKES DOGS DOGS
Q: What is the evolutionary purpose of a dog? Why did dogs evolve from wolves, and what makes them “domesticated”?
A: If you haven’t read it yet, pick up a copy of Ray Coppinger’s book Dogs: A New Understanding of Canine Origin, Behavior and Evolution. Coppinger has a PhD in Biology and has devoted his life to the study of dog behavior, evolution, and origins. Coppinger asserts that dogs evolved from wolves as humans evolved from hunter-gatherer societies to permanent settlements. Human settlements created a unique ecological niche; what we would refer to as “garbage dumps.”
Garbage dumps create free food sources for wild animals. If you don’t believe this, you obviously have not spent much time in the Adirondack forests near any dumpsters and seen the black bears that congregate to feed around these “free” food sources.
In any case, garbage dumps were not a factor when human populations were mobile/unsettled. When humans congregate in a designated area for an extended period of time, waste accumulates.
Coppinger asserts that it was in fact human refuse which originally drew wolves to our settlements (charming, no?). Within the wolf population, as in all populations, there were behavioral variances. Those wolves which tended to stick around the garbage dumps despite the presence of humans were more likely to cash in on the ecological bonanza of free eats provided by permanent human settlements. Those that were spooked more easily and would retreat in the presence of humans missed the spoils of our refuse. The phenomena at work here is called “flight distance.”
The wolves that had a lower flight distance threshold evolved differently than their less companionable, considerably more suspicious, kin. In relatively short time, these wolves adapted to the human (aka “free food”) niche. Along with this evolution came proportionately smaller skulls, brains, and teeth. It requires less brain power to get free food than hunt for your own.
WE ARE THE ULTIMATE FOOD BOWL
OK, so what does all this have to do with anything (besides the fact that if you’re a dog nerd like me, Coppinger’s book reads like a page-turning thriller)?
It has everything to do with building a relationship with your dog. Dogs became dogs through seeking food from people. It’s what makes them dogs. It taps into their very “doggyness.”
This is what makes positive reinforcement training especially valuable in dog training - it speaks to the very nature of what is dog. Dogs became dogs through seeking food from humans, not through imagining us as “concept wolves” on two legs. Providing food, not being the alpha, is at the very nature of how dogs evolved to be our “best friends.”
NEVER LOOK A GIFT HORSE IN THE MOUTH - PUT A PRIMARY REINFORCER IN THE MOUTH INSTEAD!
Dogs love food. Period. Any creature of any species that is not “food motivated” would be dead.
So why let that valuable reinforce go to waste? Put it to work for you!
A DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE ON NLIF
I grew up in an area where dogs lived off leash from puppyhood. It was a rural environment, where resident dogs spent hours running through woods, field, and stream with neighborhood kids and other neighborhood dogs. They chased squirrels and deer. They dug holes wherever the hell they wanted. They came home at night exhausted, dreaming sweetly of the hundreds of prey chases and scent trails they followed. They were mentally and physically satisfied, happy dogs. Nobody really took their dogs to classes, and most of us were proud if our dogs could “sit,” “down,” “shake,” and “rollover.”
Our dogs didn’t run away. Sadly, some fell victim to the road, but none of them ran away.
Now I live in a suburban environment. Despite loving my neighborhood, I still feel caged in. I am, after all, a country girl at heart and yearn for a life outside of the city (if you choose to call Binghamton a city).
Here, if a dog gets out of their fenced in yard or escapes their leash or tie out, they take off. Run as far as they can, as fast as they can. Why?
DOGS AND MODERN LIFE
Most dogs today don’t live this type of life. For safety reasons, we often need to employ management tools like fences and tethers to keep dogs safe. Dogs no longer get to roam, freely interacting with others from their kind when and if they choose, chasing each prey animal they come across, digging wherever they wanted for as long as they wanted, sniffing a hundred scent trails.
Most dogs are forced to fit into the confines of modern society - long work hours, tired owners with more obligations than they can realistically handle. Few of us can provide this type of lifestyle for our dogs. The trouble is, just because we cannot provide this type of lifestyle doesn’t mean our dogs crave it any less. This is the infamous “culture clash.” Modern human lifestyles often don’t provide anywhere near the mental and physical stimulation requirements required by our canine companions.
Dogs are an interesting amalgamation. They have the same hunting instincts as their wolf ancestors, but a new and different perspective on food seeking which incorporates dependence on humans. A truly happy dog will have both aspects of his personality satisfied through his interactions with his owner and his daily life.
TAP INTO YOUR DOG’S INSTINCTS
You may not be able to provide your dog with five to eight hours a day of off leash romps through the forests, meadows and streams. You may not be able to provide unlimited squirrel chases and opportunities to interact with other dogs, horses, humans, cats, etc., at your dog’s every whim. Due to the constraints of my current living environment, I often can’t give that to my dogs either. I feel your pain.
Let’s talk about that first instinct, the one that links our dogs with wolves: the desire to hunt. Dogs want to stalk, chase, grab, and shake prey. It is my personal belief that opportunity to participate in the prey sequence qualifies as a primary reinforcer for most dogs. It taps into their very “wolfiness.” We can do this from applying the Premack Principle.
The Premack Principle asserts that more probable behaviors can reinforce less probable behaviors. Have a “squirrelly” dog? The opportunity to chase squirrels (more probable behavior) can be used to reinforce a recall or focus (a less probable behavior). In laymen’s terms, “if you eat your spinach, you can have your ice cream.”
Most of these aspects of the prey sequence can be manipulated through training in the form of stalking, tug, and retrieving games. Using these types of games taps into each dog’s inherent “wolfiness,” the wild predator living within each of our beloved doggy companions, from Chihuahua to Malamute.
So how do we tap into their “dogginess,” that which distinguishes our dogs from their wolfy predecessors?
Through behavioral contingencies which include food provision (in short, positive reinforcement training!).
Another way we can meld the dual doggy needs of engaging in “wolfiness” (hunting practices) and “dogginess” (seeking food from humans) is through incorporating food rewards into games which tap into the predatory sequence.
This means introducing food dispensing toys - Kongs, Tug a Jugs, Buster Cubes, Canine Genius toys, Nina Ottosson toys, etc. Dogs want to hunt for food, to work at it, to dissect items to obtain nutrition. Food dispensing toys fulfill both of these needs.
This also means introducing food-seeking games - hide and seek, “find it”, and introducing tracking exercises. The cheapest and easiest food-seeking game is what I call a “kibble hunt.” Instead of throwing your dog’s food in a bowl, make a kibble hunt’ hiding dinner throughout the yard or the house and letting your dog find his food with his nose. Now, instead of inhaling his food in .8 seconds, it takes your dog half an hour, forty five minutes of brainwork/mental stimulation to tire him out.
You can also tap into your dog’s innate desire to seek food from humans through positive reinforcement training techniques.
PUT YOUR DOG’S FOOD TO WORK FOR YOU
If you’re going to feed your dog anyway (and I hope you are!), make him work for it. Providing plenty of predatory outlets will tap into your dog’s “wolfiness” - chase games, tug, opportunity to “dissect” toys to retrieve food, or (if you’re like me) feeding a carefully constructed prey model raw diet.
Just as no dog will be entirely happy without having his “wolfy quota” filled, no dog will be happy without having his “doggy quota” fulfilled.
Since we cannot often provide the full doggy quota of unlimited time bounding through field and stream with conspecifics as well as favored humans, we must tap into that basic need in other ways. This should be through increased physical exercise, play opportunities, and working for his food. Remember, this taps into the core of his very dogginess.
Food dispensing toys, kibble hunts, tracking and other scent games, shaping and capturing exercises, all tap into what makes your dog a dog and is at the heart of what makes dogs want to connect with us. It is the very source of their domestication.
A WOLF IN DOG’S CLOTHING?
If you follow dog training discussions at all, you know there is a pretty distinct divide between those that feel positive reinforcement training is the way and those that feel techniques grounded in dominance speculation are more appropriate.
The truth is, neither camp is right.
In order for a dog to be fulfilled, you must tap into both his “wolfiness” and his “dogness”.
His “wolfiness” is not related to “alpha hierarchies” which have been disproven to science but to his evolutionary history as a predator - one who wants to chase prey, dig after it, chase it, catch it, grab it, bite it, shake it, dissect it, and consume it. Fulfilling these basic needs is provided not through intimidation, corrections, or “domination” but through play which taps into these reservoirs of carnivorous drive - tug, fetch, dissection, shaking toys, etc.
His dogginess is not related to wilfulness, stubbornness, or a “desire to please” but to an innate desire to seek food, shelter, and security from humans. Again, this is what makes a dog a dog. The reservoir of dogginess can only be filled through providing appropriate interaction with conspecifics and in the ways in which we provide our dogs with the primary resource, food.
Hopefully, this entry illustrates the importance of food in dog training and the influence of food on the evolutionary history of dogs as they relate to humans.
Many critics of positive training techniques will argue that it is “unnatural” for dogs to learn from humans through food rewards but that it is “natural” for dogs to view humans as their pack leader and through physical corrections.
I argue that we should leave the physical corrections to the dogs, and let them use those methods to instruct each other regarding the behaviors which are/are not acceptable to their species; and that we use our bigger brains, opposable thumbs, and ability to manipulate food delivery to our advantage while providing satisfactory outlets for out dogs’ desires to hunt as descendants of the wolf through play.
Is it just me, or does this make way more sense than discussing “energy,” “auras,” and “rank” in manipulating dog behavior?
My raw feeding friends call our dogs “kitchen wolves.” This inherently makes sense to me. In spirit, each dog is a wolf. When it comes to an empty stomach, they’re all dogs, looking for a meal from a human who can’t resist a cute face or good behavior.
SUMMARY
You’re going to feed your dog anyway. At least make it interesting for him! Put your dog to work for his food through training, kibble hunts, food dispensing toys, and seeking games. Food should be interesting to a dog, not a flash in the pan!
Casey Lomonaco, KPA CTP
Rewarding Behaviors Dog Training
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